What to Ask a Carpenter Before You Hire

A great carpenter builds something that outlasts the house. A bad one leaves you with sagging decks, doors that bind, and a council letter asking why you did not pull a permit. These ten questions sort the craftsmen from the cowboys before you part with a deposit.

1. What licence do you hold — cosmetic, structural or builder?

In most Australian states, hanging a door is unlicensed work, but anything structural (load-bearing walls, decks attached to houses, second-storey work) requires a builder's licence or a structural carpenter's ticket. Ask for the licence type and number, and check it on your state register. A cosmetic chippie taking on a load-bearing job is a recipe for engineering failure — and uninsurable.

2. Will you provide a fixed quote with materials itemised?

“She'll be about ten grand” is not a quote. A real quote breaks down labour, timber by linear metre or board, fixings, hardware, and disposal. Itemised quotes let you compare apples to apples between three carpenters and stop variations from ballooning the bill. If they refuse to itemise, that is a sign the margin lives in the fog.

3. What timber species and grade will you use for the decking?

Merbau, blackbutt, spotted gum, modwood — every option has a different price, hardness, durability and look. Grade matters too: select-grade vs standard-grade can change the price 30 percent and the appearance dramatically. A good carpenter recommends a species suited to your climate, your budget, and how often you will oil it. A bad one quotes whatever is on the truck.

4. Will you hidden-fix the deck or face-fix it?

Hidden fixings (clip systems, secret screws) cost more in time and product but the finished deck has no screw heads visible. Face-fixed (screws through the top) is faster and cheaper but you see every fastener. Both are legitimate — the right choice depends on budget and look. The point is the carpenter should ask you, not assume.

5. Council permit — will you handle it or is that on me?

Decks over a certain height (varies by council, often 600mm or 1m), structural alterations, and anything close to a boundary may need a development application or building approval. Some carpenters lodge it; others leave it to you. Get clarity in writing — “I assumed you were handling it” is how jobs end up unapproved and unsellable.

6. Will you supply materials or do I source them?

Carpenters who supply usually mark up 10 to 25 percent — fair compensation for ute trips, account-holding, and warranty hassle. Owner-supplied saves money but you carry the risk of wrong cuts, missing fixings, and warranty disputes. Decide which model you want and get the quote built around it. Mixing the two halfway through is where things go pear-shaped.

7. What warranty do you offer on workmanship?

Statutory warranty for major defects in residential building work is typically six years (varies by state). A confident carpenter offers it in writing and explains what is covered: structural integrity, fixings, joinery alignment. Materials carry their own manufacturer warranty. Anything less than two years on labour is a sign they do not trust their own work.

8. Do you use subcontractors or your own team?

Many carpenters subcontract electrical, plumbing, even labouring. That is fine — but you should know who is on site, who is insured, and who is liable if something fails. Ask for the names and trades of subbies, their licences, and confirmation they are covered under the head contractor's insurance. Surprise day labourers without ABNs are a tax and insurance disaster waiting to happen.

9. What is the timeline and how do you handle site access?

Carpenters routinely juggle multiple jobs. Get a start date, a finish date, and an honest answer about which days they will actually be on your site versus elsewhere. Confirm site access — keys, gate codes, dog handling, neighbour notifications. The biggest source of complaints with carpenters is unexplained absences. A clear schedule prevents that.

10. How do you handle calls when you are on the tools?

A carpenter with a nail gun in their hand cannot answer the phone, and the best ones know it. Look for a business that uses an answering service or AI receptionist to book quotes and capture job details. If a carpenter ignores three calls during the quoting phase, expect zero communication when there is a delay or a problem mid-build.

Green flags

  • Builder's or structural licence for load-bearing work
  • Itemised quote with timber species and grade
  • Recommends species suited to your climate
  • Asks about hidden vs face-fix preference
  • Clear on permit responsibility in writing
  • Names subcontractors and their licences
  • Returns calls and confirms schedule by SMS

Red flags

  • No licence visible for structural work
  • “Ballpark” quote with no breakdown
  • Cannot name the timber species in the quote
  • Vague on whether council approval is needed
  • Cash subbies with no ABNs
  • No workmanship warranty in writing
  • Disappears for days without explanation

What to do if things go wrong

If the work is defective, the deck is bouncing, joins are failing, or the project has stalled, raise the issues in writing with photos and a reasonable timeframe to remediate. If the carpenter is unresponsive, escalate to your state building authority or Fair Trading. For structural defects you are typically within statutory warranty for six years. If a permit was required and not lodged, speak to your council about retrospective approval — leaving an unapproved structure on title affects future sale. Keep contracts, invoices, photos, and SMS history.

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